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Recent Press
Jack Baker’s Lobster Shanty is “Can’t
Miss”
By Rich Stringer, InsideTrack Almanac Food Critic
A star quarterbacks always has a “go to”
receiver – a high quality option that always
comes through, often spectacularly. My “go
to” restaurant for entertaining is Jack
Baker’s Lobster Shanty on Vero’s Royal Palm
Point. From start to finish, the food
shines.
A basket of corn fritters, a signature of
Lobster Shanty, is put on the table for
starters. These balls of fluffy, fried sweet
corn cakes, dusted with powdered sugar,
explode across your taste buds. It sets the
bar pretty high.
Appetizers usually give you a fair idea of
how dinner will fare, and one dish I use as
a standard for judging the skill of a
kitchen is Fried Calamari. It is so easy to
overcook this dish; first the flavor
flattens out and then it turns tough. The
batter was light and crispy, allowing the
focus to be on the sweet juiciness of the
calamari, prepared as it should be.
The Rock Shrimp, which was also available in
an entrée portion, proved that its nickname
of “poor man’s lobster” actually sells the
dish short. This offering had more flavor
than usually found in its larger cousin. I
satisfied my taste for the restaurant’s
namesake, however, with a cup of the creamy
Lobster Bisque, which I highly recommend.
Having an urge for red meat yet unable to
resist the delectable aroma of seafood
wafting from the kitchen, I went for the
Ribs and Shrimp. First I savored the seven
fried shrimp which were rather large, moist
and succulent. The fry cook knows exactly
how long to cook the seafood…The freshest I
understand available in the area.
The rack of baby back ribs piqued my
curiosity because it appeared to be free of
any sauce. I pulled one rib away from the
rack – no knife needed – and the meat was
indeed falling off the bone. I had been
fooled. A deep barbeque flavor that had been
grilled into the meat spread warmly across
my mouth. It takes both talent and a good
sauce recipe to leave such an imperceptible
glaze of caramelize richness without either
scorching the sauce or leaving the ribs
bland. Having grown up with the backwoods
rib shacks and back-road smokehouses of the
Deep South, I was amazed to find such good
barbeque work at a waterfront eatery.
My companion’s Snow Crab Legs were piled
high. When done right, crab legs have a rich
melt-in-your-mouth quality. As a seafood
restaurant, Lobster Shanty should be held to
a higher standard on their specialty. These
were indeed done right. The crab legs were
cut open for your convenience, though it
would be well worth the trouble to dig out
these tasty chunks of crabmeat.
We finished with Key Lime Pie, which had
just the right balance of tart with sweet,
and Chocolate Chip Layer Cake. If you have a
weakness for chocolate, this dessert
presents four different embodiments of the
cocoa richness, so by all means throw your
restraint to the wind and indulge.
Too many waterfront restaurants are content
to let the ambiance do the work and the food
suffers. Even blindfolded, you will be
delighted by Jack Baker’s Lobster Shanty.
The beautiful view is a bonus.
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